The End! (Chapters 6-8)

The title of chapter six is called "Local and Light" which implies exactly what it seems, it is a chapter which is focused on the importance of local-manufacturing and leaving the "lightest" eco-foot print possible with each piece of clothing. The "local" aspects of this chapter include topics such as "locally made, globally relevant", "local and connected", "local wisdom", and "local examples". My personal favorite of these was the portion, "locally made, globally relevant". This portion clarifies some common misconceptions of localism, seen in the quote, "local and small-scale is not simplistic or sentimental- in fact making things locally is frequently more complex than its one-size-fits-all alternative" (Fletcher, 141). The company Zara which is an example of a company that began as a generally local (European-specifically Spain and Portugal) based company which has successfully transformed itself into a global company, however; Zara still retrains its ability to avoid waste and save on fuel. I found this chapter, although it wasn't focused on my topic of textiles, interesting to read and very informative.

Chapters 7 and 8 titled "Speed" and "User Maker" happened to go hand-in-hand. As their title implies they are both about the factor of speed when designing and the actual process of forming the textiles. These chapters were far off from my topic of Sustainable Textiles. In the "Speed" chapter it discusses the necessity of speed and the general realities of this fast paced industry. In the Fashion Industry it is anomalistic to be able to not have to rapidly produce many designs. Trends quickly fade in and out so to keep current it is important to produce quickly and then simply move on. This chapter explains that the only real opportunity for slow-produced textiles is when designing simple basics such as a little black dress or a whit button down. "user-maker" wasn't as much a chapter suited for me. Written for designers it spoke of techniques and aesthetics. I read it however it definitely reinforced my previous belief that I am not meant to be an artist in the world of design and textiles. In the end, I really enjoyed reading this book. While at some parts the scientific aspects were tedious they were completely needed for the book to provide the basis of all knowledge required when learning about textiles. After reading this book I even gained knowledge of things I definitely didn't imagine myself learning about. I really like this book and suggest it to anyone interested in the environment, fashion, or both.

Chapter 5- Fashion, Needs and Consumption

In this chapter Fletcher dives deeply into fashion, and the fashion industry, the purpose of this chapter is because "To bring more sustainable change we have to better understand the function of clothes" (Fletcher, p.119). Fletcher changes topics for the majority of this chapter and discusses needs, ethics , and reversing the escalators of consumption. In the chapter conclusion, "Reversing the escalators of consumption" Fletcher reviews the main escalators of consumption such a, "the pressure to compare ourselves to others, the rolling replacement of things, the cultural obligation to experience everything an buy things accordingly, constant consumption as a part of a continuous process of identity formation" (p.130, Fletcher). Fletcher later discusses opportunities to reverse this mass consumption. While Fletcher's break from writing about sustainable textiles and the environment was extremely unexpected and odd at first, however; it adds another dimension to the argument for not only sustainable textiles but also to reducing our consumption as a species.

Chapters 3 & 4

"Use Matters" is the title of chapter three. This is where the book shifts from general sustainability, materials, etc. to the buyers actual usage of the clothing. The surprising topic of laundering is specifically focused on in this chapter. Fletcher reveals a different aspect of sustainability within this chapter, not only creating sustainable fabrics out of eco-friendly materials but also the very important but often overlooked task of designing garments which will remain longer. Most experts on sustainability don't include information on this aspect but it is extremely important all the same. Chapter four, titled "Reuse, Recycling, and Zero Waste" is focused on the topic in which the chapter title clearly implies. In this chapter Fletcher discusses waste management strategies, reuse of goods, and the repair and reconditioning of goods. It is almost a more general look at the contents of chapter three, not only discussing the lasting appeal but also the recycling of fabrics and reuse of fabrics. This is important so that the textile creators are not mass producing textiles which could easily be recycled.

Chapter 2 Ethically Made

Chapter 2, simply titled "Ethically Made", explores two methods of improvement in the textile industry, improving the individual production and the improvement of the industry as a whole. Fletcher explores the best practices and fiber processing in this chapter with recommendations of, "minimizing the number of processing steps, choosing 'clean' production techniques, minimizing processing consumables, choosing 'clean' processing chemicals, reducing energy and water consumption, and reducing waste production and carefully managing waste systems" (Fletcher,p.46) Fletcher provides examples of ways to become ethically made including, using sustainable fabrics, dyes, and bleaching. She also gives examples of ethically responsible clothing lines such as Marks & Spencer, ONE, and some American Apparel products (which is shown in the picture). Fletcher gives business savvy advice on both being sustainable and succesful

Chapter 1 Material Diversity

In chapter 1 Kate Fletcher writes about the basics necessity of sustainable textiles, the materials. Fletcher writes about some of the most commonly used materials (cotton, silk, linen, polyester,etc.) and their effect on the environment. Fletcher then elaborates on sustainable alternatives such as organic cotton, bamboo, hemp, and soya. The mainly focused on material is cotton. Fletcher goes into depth on low chemical cotton, low water use cotton , and fair trade cotton. Fletcher does a good job of providing information on each side of the argument and seeming fairly unbiased, an example of this is in the quote." Cultivating 1kg of cotton for example draws on as much as 8000 liters of water. In comparison producing 1kg of polyester uses little or no water. Polyester manufacture does however consume twice the energy needed to make the same amount of cotton" (Fletcher, p.7) Fletcher does a good job of providing information on each type of fiber, however; there could definitely be more information provided on silk, linen, etc. The book provides many charts based upon the information. These charts include the demand for fiber, environmental costs per each stage in the lifecycle of a cotton t-shirt, and energy and water consumption on each type of fiber. This chapter of the book aids the reader to basic information about fibers and sustainability that she implies will be elaborated upon in the later chapters.